It's been a fascinating 2 days. First I cycled on back roads up the Willamette vally, making my way through one of the most fertile farm lands in America.
I am taking back what I said about Americans and their car: I just saw people in ordinary cars, going about their work, nothing fancy, no showing off. I will probably see a lot of these contrasts.
Then it was up the McKenzie valley. Initially it looked impressive but fairly normal. However, then I came upon the effects of the 2020 forest fire. Some of the trees survived but most of the houses must have burnt down. The current ones look all very new. I know it's going on across the globe just now, but the last time something like that happened in our part of the world was in 1716 when the Jacobites burnt down Auchterarder and the surrounding villages.
I also met Arlene and Chris from Hutchinson KS. They were coming the other direction, so had just about finished. It was good to hear their stories and advice: Definitely take bear spray for the dogs in Eastern Kentucky. They use two cans.
I also got their number and they invited me to drop in on them when I get to Kansas.
The next day was up to the McKenzie Pass, going from 1,000ft to over 5,000ft. The first 1,000ft were no problem but then I got slower and slower. I thought someone was wrong but then it clicked: Oxygen! Living a sea level we are not used to exertion at altitude. Anyway, I will have to get used to this. I was thinking of you, Tommy, and all the climbs you do on your turbo trainer.
The road was mostly through the trees but then suddenly it opened up into these amazing lava fields. I had to stop and clamber all over it. I don't know if the photos do it justice.
The guy in the picture is Devon. I helped him out with a mechanical.
In the campsite I met a couple with their 10 month old daughter and they were hiking the Pacific Crest Trail: 2,653m miles. This puts my adventure into perspective.
To date I have only met Americans and Canadians. The Swiss/Scottish seem to be the only ones who venture that far West, like Donald McKenzie in the early 19 century.


