A lot happened in the last six days. I went over four mountain ranges, followed two north west leading rivers and now up along the Lochsa River, going north east and tomorrow over the Lola pass, at 5,235 feet, the highest part of the trip so far.
One of the biggest challenges to date has been learning to cope with the heat. Spending a day with 39/40 °C in the shade and trying to sleep with 25/28 °C, and let's not even start about cycling in this kind of weather. However, I think I passed the test. Anyway, I am glad the heatwave seems to have passed.
You will see from the photos that the landscape and the weather have been amazing and very varied but added to that, has been meeting people.
When I camped in the city park in New Meadows (population 496), Chris stopped by and we talked for about a hour. He seems to be socially rather active in the town. Over a year ago he, together with the owners of the local motel, had started to raise money for a skate and mountain bike park as there doesn't seem to be much to do for teenagers around there. However, just a year ago, a man on the run with mental health issues arrived at the local motel. He harassed some of the guests and the police were called but they omitted to run his name. A little late he went to the office and shot the owners. You can imagine what tragedy that must have been for such a close knit community and which side of the gun control lobby Chris was on. Nonetheless, he was aware of the challenges, pointing out a sign across the park: Don't blame me, I voted for Trump.
I am also getting familiar with people walking down the street, openly carrying a handgun, shooting ranges in every town, and ammunition for sale in all supermarkets.
I met a lot of other people as well: Chris, a veteran who went back to Vietnam to put his ghosts to rest; Australians Mathew and Laura traveling around the USA for 6 months; a young woman outside Grangeville, heading west but ready to juke it in; Megan, a shop keeper, who had moved from the coast to a small town in eastern Oregon to get away from all that shit; and many more.
When I stayed in White Bird (population 91), named after a native American leader, I saw this war memorial with a surprising number of names. Normal memorial like that are for people who have died. However, this one was for everyone who had ever served. This gave a very different feel, more alive, if that is the right expression. It seems a lot of people on the list for a rather sparsely populated area, but considering economic prospects, maybe not surprising. I put the pictures of monument up.
On the road as the whole, I have felt fairly safe. Yesterday in particular, coming up over the White Bird pass, the route took me along the old 95, now deserted. A lovely climb with lots of switch backs. However, another time I did get a shock. I was cycling along a busy highway and saw a truck loaded with roof trusses coming up behind me. The driver gave me a very wide birth but the wash was absolutely amazing, rocking me from side to side. Then I saw the reason: The trusses overhung the truck by about 6 feet, creating a real bow wave. Not something you see much in Scotland.
Last night I wild camped for the first time because the campsite was full. I hung my food high up in a tree and kept the bear spray handy. I didn't need it though and had the best sleep ever (campsites can often be noisy).
Tonight I am staying at the Lochsa Lodge in Powell. Although it's mainly lodges, a petrol station and a restaurant, they allow cyclists to camp behind the store. They also have the most amazing showers. There is a fascinating range of people hanging around: Bikers, a bride and wedding guests, walkers, cyclists (me), fisherman, hunters, people on dirt bikes and dune buggies, and of course, RV drivers. Everyone just getting on with it.
My bike is clearly a conversation starter. I spoke to Dave and Beth. He had done a lot of cycle touring in his youth and talked very knowledgeably about bike setups, saddles and about touring in general. It's always good to talk to people who know what it's all about.
They also have a small shop, and when I paid, I heard a blast from the past, something I haven't heard in 30 years: For authorising payments, they still use a dial up modem, the ones they make those squeaky sounds. I didn't know that this technology is still used. Amazing in this day and age but it works, although it took absolutely ages.
Tomorrow I will get to my third state, Montana, after Oregon and Idaho. I will also complete my first 1,000 miles. Only 3,200 to go, but let's not think about it.
